Stewart’s Journal 3
Image of a birchbark canoe on a Canadian River, from Glenbow Archive, image na-843-14, used with their permission
It is time to pick up James Green Stewart’s journal once more, and to follow what he has to say of the shared expedition North to the shores of the Arctic Sea in search of Sir John Franklin’s lost men. The month and year: July 1855. The team of about ten men has made their way over the mountain portage and is now on the headwaters of the Great Fish River, which they will follow North through the Barren Grounds all the way to the Arctic Sea. The expedition is led by Chief Trader James Anderson, who is currently in charge of the Mackenzie’s River district. Anderson has been told that he is to be made Chief Factor at the next annual Council meeting, and it is clear that James Green Stewart did not consider Anderson the superior Chief Trader. The superior Chief Trader is the man who has been chief trader for a longer time, and that makes a difference. All the way through the HBC’s business, that length of time matters.
So the team of men are now on Sussex Lake, and the date is July 12. To read the James Anderson journal that takes place at the same time and place, go here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/james-andersons-journey-6/ (The Back River is the Great Fish River.)
So James Green Stewart’s journal: Stewart ended his July 11th entry with the words:
Our canoes have not yet suffered much though we have been a great deal in the ice, great care has been taken of them. 38 portages have already been made without damage. It is to be hoped they will stand the trip. Ice is our great enemy and we ought now to have passed it till we reach the sea.
This handwritten journal was a little hard to read, so you might have to make allowances for what Stewart’s journal says. After the last entry, above, he does not enter anything in this personal journal until Saturday 14th, when he says
Since the 11th we have made 10 portages and have reached the place where Captain [George] Back sent back his carpenters. Last night we saw some Indians and traded some meat from them. The Canoes ran two or three small rapids and encamped. This morning we made the portage of Musk Ox rapid [missing words] with the Indians for making a cache of meat at the spot we met them and sent back La Ferté and the engaged Indians to Fort Reliance. This is risk or rather…, perhaps fear has something to do with it. Ran two more rapids and encamped. Weather has been so cloudy that we have not been able to take observations for some time. Set two nets this evening having seen a great many fish in the river as we came down.
Captain George Back is the Englishman who descended the Great Fish River in 1834, and in 1855 his published book is being used as Anderson’s guide to the river. As it proves, its maps are not always well drawn or accurate, and so it leads Anderson’s men on some misadventures. “La Ferté” is Alfred Laferté, who had been injured on the crossing of the Mountain portage and had become very cranky as a result of that injury or some other dissatisfaction. The Indians mentioned were those Yellowknives Dene [First Nations] men who were sent across the Mountain portage to guide Anderson and his party as far as their fishing lake of Lake Aylmer. Let us continue Stewart’s journal:
Sunday 15th to 17th. The last two days have passed in running through a succession of rapids and small lakes & windings of the river, a Musk Ox was killed at the foot of Malley’s Rapids, Mr. A’s shot having killed the animal, a two year old bull, opportunely. Yesterday a deer was killed by Jack Fidler…9 geese were also destroyed without the assistance of powder, they not being able to fly. A number of deer and Musk Oxen were seen, the former we have [shot?] while deer are to be had as the former [latter?] is none of the best. Today we sailed across Lake Beechey and made the portage of the Cascades, the first rapid we we have not been able to run. The country here is more fertile than that about Lake Aylmer. Sand hills and some clay banks…are [seen?] to be covered with short grass which give it quite a civilized appearance to what we have passed through. We commenced making our cache on the 15th where we left our 3rd canoe and 1 [bag of] pemican, another at the foot of McKay’s Rapid, one at the other end of Lake Beechey, and one at the end of these Falls. The weather has been cloudy and chilly with constant north winds, [today?] though blowing hard the sun is shining and we hope to get an observation. We dined at the N.E end of the portage and pushed out again at 3 PM when we hoisted sail at once and passed through a small lake at the end of which the scenery changed and became quite picturesque, high sand cliffs covered with verdure and river winding between them in a boiling current. Two strong rapids were run in which we took in a considerable quantity of water, but it is no wonder for our canoes are very much cumbered with 3 cargoes in two. After running a series of rapids we encamped in a small bay, 26 geese were killed today. The weather was remarkably fine this afternoon, and much milder than usual…Our course being in general North East all day–we are going fast upon that gentlemen’s [George Back’s] march having made 10 1/2 days since leaving Lake Aylmer, should all go well we hope to pass him tomorrow.
Once these men sailed through Lake Beechey they left the Northwest Territories behind them and sailed into the Territory of Nunavut. And you also realize, of course, that if these men captured geese without powder, they chased them through the herbage and tackled them: these geese could not fly, because they were in their annual molt. Can you imagine tackling a Canada goose that was guarding its nest and family? These men were tough! So, Stewart’s journal continues:
Wednesday 18th. Left at 3 AM, ran some rapids, passed through some wide parts of the river, and came to a series of cascades where we had to lighten the canoes, and…take them down with the line. Very warm in the morning but cloudy with appearance of rain in the afternoon, chilly at night. 26 geese killed today and though on [illegible] & fired at several deer. Some were killed. Wind N.W good sailing.
Thursday 19th. Left at 3 AM and continued our route through sand banks and encamped at the head of Hawk Rapids. Saw some traces of Esquimaux [Inuit] but not of recent date. In the afternoon the weather turned out very badly, rain and cold. N.W wind towards 6 o’clock PM. It again cleared and the night was cold. Very little wood to be had, nor any moss or heather. Our kettles were boiled and that was all.
Friday 20th. Ran the Hawk Rapids in the morning and in seeing some recent caches of deer put ashore for breakfast, it was evident that the Esquimaux [Inuit] had been there a short time before, and on looking round with the glass we discovered 2 tents a short way above the river. Breakfast over we started, several came to the tents, put ashore and found the poor Esquimaux very friendly but without interpreter we could get but little from them, only that they came from the N.E which must be Chesterfield Inlet. They received a few presents and we left them. Lower down we saw two more tents with a number of deer laying on the beach to rot before being eaten, fortunately they were recently killed and we got the tongues from them which proved excellent. Lower down we saw more tents but the wind having increased to a gale we did not put ashore for fear of breaking our canoes. Passed McKinlay’s River and Baillie’s River and as the course turned suddenly to the North we had to put ashore at 6 PM having been nearly swamped in endeavouring to make head against a regular storm from [B..] headquarters. Cold with hail and rain at intervals during the day which with the sand nearly blinded us. Nothing but Sandhills with now and then a rocky point or isolated peaks of rocks now and then covered with moss. Camped a little above Bullen’s River where we are to make another Cache. How do you do dearest My own dear wife. Hope is supporting me and in ten days we ought to be nearly at our furthest. God bless you now dearest.
An explanation here: James Green Stewart had fairly recently got married, and he is putting this notation in his private journal for her attention. She is waiting for him at Norway House. So, we continue with Stewart’s journal.
Saturday 21st. Remained the whole day in Camp, head wind cold and showers of rain every now and then throughout the day.
Sunday 22nd. The wind having abated a little about 2 AM we started and after passing Bullen’s River the course turned in an Easterly direction when sail was made and we passed through Lake Pelly, at the N.W. end of which we saw Esquimaux Tents. At sight of us they all ran to the Hills so we left a few trifles in their tents and embarked immediately. Towards 10 PM we encamped at a narrow in Lake Garry.
At this time, these HBC men are passing through the series of lakes that the Inuit called the “Sideways Lakes,” as they lie on an east to west axis, rather than a north to south axis. In fact, they lead the Great Fish River a hundred miles toward the East, and so make this expedition travel over a longer river route before they reach the Arctic Sea. The lakes were obviously named by George Back in 1834, for two of the Directors of the London Committee of the HBC; that is, Deputy-Governor Nicholas Garry, and Governor Sir John Henry Pelly. Stewart’s journal continues.
Monday 23rd. Started at 5 AM and after passing through a strait we breakfasted, being at a loss which way to go and indeed the most of day was spent in looking for the rapid laid down in Captain Back’s map, by which we were misled entirely. After passing through a good deal of ice we encamped at the foot of a range of sandhills.
Tuesday 24th. Continued on our course N.E.and came to a rapid which we saw and breakfasted below it. This had been the first clear day we have had since leaving the west end of Lake Aylmer. After breakfast we passed 5 rapids at two of which we had to lighten the Canoe, the river here is divided into several channels in all of which there appears to be a good deal of water. Camped a little below a rapid in a bay. No fuel to be found except dry moss and a little Heather, sterility prevails here. The country appears to be less rocky hereabouts than that we have already passed through. Killed 16 geese today and a deer yesterday which I forgot to mention. The destroyer is either Mr. A or myself, it is a disputed point.
Wednesday 25th, July. Started at 4 AM and after breakfasting in Lake McDougall came to Rock Rapid and Fall, the former being run. The latter the canoes were lightened. We again embarked, and after running two more rapids we came to a heavy fall at which we were obliged to carry canoes and all. After which we ran two more rapids and camped at Sinclair’s Fall after carrying everything across the rocks. The descent today cannot be less than 120 or 130 feet below the bank of Lake McDougall. 8 rapids and falls were passed today. The weather was cloudy but mild and a few drops of rain fell in the evening. Our course today has been all round the compass, at present the reach in which we are in runs in an Easterly direction. Our compasses require topping them, they are getting sluggish though we are making but little northerly. 14 geese killed today, 5 deer seen but not fired at, numbers of Esquimaux marks [stone piles] along the banks of the river, all pointing in a N.E direction.Made a cache upon an island below Rock rapids, one pemmican, 1 paddle and a broken copper kettle, not forgetting an old Capote to mark the spot.
Even today, compasses are filled with mineral oil or spirits which tends to evaporate. Stewart’s journal does not mention that anyone carried mineral oil, and so the compasses could only have gotten more sluggish until, perhaps, they stopped working. Stewart’s journal continues.
Thursday, 26th July. Started at 4 AM and breakfasted after killing 2 deer. Arrived early at Escape Rapids. Above we made a Cache of 1 Pemican, 1 bag flour, and a line of sundries. Lightened the canoes and the rapid was soon safely embarked below and after running 3 more rapids camped at the foot of Wolf Rapid. 64 geese killed today. Weather cloudy and chilly wind N.E We are so far safe and have nearly caught up to Captain Back though he was 13 days sooner at [Sussex?] Lake, but we hope that we may reach the Sea in safety and after doing what we can to clear up the mystery, the object of the Expedition, may we return as safely as we have come down. Dearest Meg, I have been thinking of you all day. How are you today Perhaps thinking of the Fish River and indulging in the same hopes as I am. Well, dearest, sincerely do I trust they may be fulfilled for if alive my promise will be kept.
Friday, 27th July. Started at 3 AM and after running several rapids breakfasted on an island where a cache was made a little below. On starting again we got entangled in a deep bay of the river running into it, of course we had to turn back thereby losing most of the day. After we had regained the current several rapids were run and we camped opposite to a high rock with sloping sides where Musk Oxen were feeding. The right or west bank of the river is more bare of moss or heather than in the upper parts of the river and it is difficult to find enough to boil our kettles. I should fancy that it would require Esquimaux and Musk oxen to be the permanent inhabitants of this sterile black tract of country. Showers of rain and cloudy most of the day and cold, cleared away towards evening, & milder.
Saturday, 28th July. Started at 5 AM and camped above Mountain [Montressor] River having run 4 rapids. Very strong side wind all day which impeded our progress very much indeed. Clear weather but very cold. This makes 14 rapids we have passed today and yesterday. The country shows very little difference, a trifle more heather, perhaps. 2 geese killed today. We saw a couple of deer with their fawns but did not fire on them. It would never answer to depend wholly on our guns here for altogether we have seen but few deer as yet.
Sunday, 29th. Started at 4 AM and put ashore at 6 having injured one of the canoes in a Rapid. After breakfast passed Mountain [Montressor] River, McKay’s Peak, and camped at 7 p.m. in Lake Franklyn near the outlet of the river in an island. The ice in the lake to the N.W. is still firm, apparently. The country is getting worse and worse, however, as we advance. We found a piece of wood on the beach evidently part of an Esquimaux canoe, put up at a mark this spring. We had fine weather all day, though cloudy, but at night it blew up from the N with fog and rain. 55 geese killed today.
Lake Franklin is the last lake on the Great Fish River, and they are almost at the Arctic Sea. As you can tell, James Green Stewart is not enjoying this journey in the slightest, although it seems that James Anderson did. On his way down the river, and perhaps up as well, Anderson collected samples of lichen and brought them South to Fort Simpson on his return. Today the collection is in an archives somewhere, and I do not know where. If you know, let me know, please and thank you.
I will end this part of the journey for now, and we will continue it when the men paddle into the bottom of Chantrey Inlet, which they will explore. They will also meet some Inuit people who know the story of the lost men of Sir John Franklin’s expedition, although they will have some difficulty understanding the details of the story because of the lack of interpreters. When I write the next section of this journal, you will find it here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/whatever-i-call-it/
To return to the beginnings of John Stewart’s journal, go here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/stewarts-journal/
As you know, this book is being published in January 2027, but I will tell you more when I know the details myself.
Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2026. All rights reserved.