Stewart’s Journal 6
Image of a birchbark canoe on a Canadian River, from Glenbow Archive, image na-843-14, used with their permission
I ended the last section of James Green Stewart’s journal at Sussex Lake, on the return journey of the Arctic Expedition to the Sea in search of Sir John Franklin’s men. In his last journal entry, Stewart wrote, [and it looks like I made a mistake in my last blogpost because this is what he actually wrote in his journal.] “Wednesday 29th [August], 1855. Breakfasted at Musk Ox Lake where a fat buck was consigned to the various kettles by Thomas Mustagen, made the Musk Ox portage and encamped at the S.W. end of Musk Ox Lake.” So they aren’t quite as far as Sussex Lake, but they will be there in a day or so. His journal continues with his next day’s entry, which (because of my error) will look familiar to you:
Thursday 30th. Breakfasted at the 1st portage and encamped at [the little lake before] Sussex Lake [long blank] and for our poor men who have been so much [hacked?] by hard work and bad weather. They are in capital spirits and have been all along. Tomorrow we hope to be afloat in Lake Aylmer [S.W?] having accomplished our trip in far less time then Captain [George] Back. A most beautiful day we had for the portages, the weather seems to have changed for the better.
Stewart sounds quite cheerful, and of course he is, as now that the party has reached Lake Aylmer he and all the men know they will make their way safely home to Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, even if the cold descends and the snow flies and winter sets in. James Green Stewart’s journal continues:
Friday 31st. Made the portages to Lake Aylmer. Gummed the Canoes and breakfasted on the other side of the bay, very thankful to get clear of Fish River and its dangers. Two deer were killed, one by Jack and one by Thomas [Mustagen]. After passing two deep bays we encamped on the point where we enter the straits [of] Clinton Colden. A shower of rain fell this afternoon, thick fog in the morning and cloudy all day, but mild.
Saturday 1st September, 1855. Started early and spent the whole day in looking for the Straits between Lake Aylmer and Clinton Colden [Lake] without success. We encamped at a point where we hope to find a passage tomorrow, but there are so many islands that is is a most intricate [blank] distinguishing them from the main land. Two more deer by Thomas and Jack. The day was fine with a N.W. breeze now and then which [aided] our movements at one time and was not strong enough to delay us much where obliged to head against it. A portage was made in the course of the day, from one bay into another. This is the place Captain Back had so much difficulty in finding his way both on his first and second trip, though he had an Indian guide.
You can see how difficult it was to read parts of his journal, which must be faded in places (I was working from a photocopy of the journal sent by the archives that held it.) And you can also see how little detail it contains, in comparison to Anderson’s journal. I also do not know who the man he calls Jack is — there is no Jack or Jacques on the list of men who are travelling with him, and so he must be calling someone with a different name Jack. Your guess is as good as mine… [Aha! he tells us below: it is Jack Fidler, whose real name is John.] The journal continues:
Sunday, 2nd September. Remained in camp all day, the wind was too strong to move. Thomas sent to see if we were actually in the strait or not and returned in the evening, that we had found the passage at last. He killed a large buck doe on his way home. The tracings in Captain Back’s map and his description of this hidden strait was very [poor] indeed. The day has been dry and dreary. Though we had no rain or snow still on our way home, and getting so near to our own kind friends after an exploration which at first was doubtful whether it would even be concluded, makes delay to be felt more keenly [than] otherwise. It is now approaching the end of the seventh month since I left my dear wife, uncertain whether I should ever again meet her in this world, doubtful how [she] would get there, an arduous journey to Red River trusting this Providence, who is ever kind to strengthen her sufficiently for the difficulties of her situation, and now that I am approaching the place where we hope to receive letters, no wonder that [blank] is to [blank] should weigh by spirits down. Our journey northwards has been most prosperous [propitious?], dangers at every step through a ragged [rugged] river [blank] country, have been passed by us without any serious accident, and here we are within [blank] of our [destination] all in good health, for [blank] then [blank] our [blank] how thankful ought we to be for Gods infinite mercies, his protection, which he has vouchsafed to us, from [blank] many times each day. How often one stroke of a paddle has been between us and death, how often have our frail barks have within an [blank] of being crushed by ice or smashed to stones or rocks at the [blank] to us miserable sinners. Let us return his benefits by obedience to his will and commandment, May both be improved in mind by this separation and may I remember, with gratitude, the mercies bestowed on me during this voyage. May God in his mercy continue his benefits unto me, that we may have a speedy meeting is my fervent prayer.
I believe his new wife is an English or perhaps Canadian woman who is making her way from Canada into Ruperts Land by herself. I know he meets up with her at Norway House when the journey is finished, so he must have hoped to receive a letter from her when he reached Fort Resolution. But apparently he did not. James Green Stewart’s journal continues:
Monday 3rd. Passed through the islands with a strong head wind which arrested our further progress through Clinton Colden. We encamped on the western point.
Tuesday 4th. Remained all day in camp, blowing hard from the SE. Started 7 p.m.
Wednesday 5th. Marched till 11 p.m.when we put ashore. Meantime, where our course lay the whole day was spent in fruitlessly searching for the straits, no sun to take directions by and the map is as good or next to nothing. We are going entirely by compass. We are at present in a deep bay about 20 or 30 miles S.E. of our previous encampment. This delay is most annoying, and in a place where we expected our troubles were at an end. I however prepare [?] at [blank] despair is truly in our case, this paddling about in bays without advancing is most harassing to the men who very easily put out, but we hope tomorrow may bring us better fortune. Cloudy with fog all day, but no rain and mild, a great many deer were seen today.
Thursday 6th. Started after breakfast in consequence of the fog, and shortly after discovered the narrows. Glad were all to find we were once more in the right. Encamped at a point in one of the wide parts of the Straits a little southward of the two rapids. Three deer were killed today, two by Jack Fidler [that’s who he is calling Jack! Now I know!] and one by [blank]. The Fog clears off as soon as we found the narrows but before that we could see only a few lengths ahead of the canoe. Our campfires are getting larger [as wood] is now abundant.
Friday 7th. Started at 3 a.m. Ran a rapid and breakfasted. Made fires in the lapse of a mile that Indians might see it if any were at hand. Made another one in Artillery Lake. Blowing hard in the morning from the N.W., calmed about midday. We have as yet seen no Indians, to our great disappointment, for we are at a loss which road to take. The Al-hel-dessy [Lockhart] is reported by Captain Back to be impassible and the other road we know little or nothing about. We are now encamped at what they call the Beaver Lodge, a pity that our people are not aware we are so close to them, we should soon have guides enough.
And in fact, once they are in Artillery Lake, they are very close to Great Slave Lake. The Beaver Lodge (and the Rat’s Lodge) is halfway up the lake, more or less, so they have a bit of distance to paddle yet to reach whatever trail they wanted to take down to Great Slave Lake. The Al-hel-dessy River he speaks of is very violent, and its enormous falls and rushing waters that tumble down the hill to Great Slave Lake are now home to a massive power plant which (I believe) provides power to a large region of the modern-day Northwest Territories. James Green Stewart’s journal continues:
Saturday 8th. Crossed over to the Beaver Lodge [or, perhaps, the Rat’s Lodge] in a gale of wind and rain. Hoisted sail, seeing the Indians we put ashore below [where] Captain Back built his Boat and remained all day. The rain continued with the wind during the day and throughout the night, towards morning it began to snow.
Sunday 9th Started with the tide and found a number of Tent poles standing where the Indians have evidently recently been, send scouts in all directions and on their return round to the bottom of the bay, where were a number of canoes and poles with carcasses of deer of no long date. Here we intend starting for the Lake [Great Slave Lake] or for our Fort [Fort Reliance], the people belonging to which appear to have forgotten us entirely. It is rather curious that no Marks [clerks?] or Indians are [sent] to assist us, rather too bad to be thus deserted by our friends when we expected our troubles were over. Anxious are we all to get our letters, to hear news of those nearest and dearest to us. We shall I trust find our way with God’s help yet after roaming so far.
Monday 10th. Began making portage through a chain of Lakes and soon found the water running the other way. We are evidently upon some Indian road, in one place the small stream was deep enough to exempt us from carrying. After passing them [and] a good size Lake we encamped, evidently on the road but not exactly at the river. 8 portages were made today.
Tuesday 11th. After regaining the little river we continued our tedious march and after breakfast were gladdened by the sight of Great Slave Lake about 5 miles distant in a direct line. Here also we fell upon a land track recently travelled by men, women, and children. The men began the portage while Mr. [James] Anderson and myself continued onwards and reached Fort Reliance without any guidance but Providence and ourselves. Thanks to the Almighty our voyage is conducted with success, without accident, and here we have our letters and are now once more among friends. Mr. [James] Lockhart started yesterday with the boats to meet us but we have sent after him. I trust in a day or two to be on our way to Fort Resolution. He has nearly finished the houses [at Fort Reliance] and has collected a quantity of provisions. We of course will take everything away and leave the Yellow Knives in possession of the portage, and I trust it shall never more be my lot to revisit the Great Fish River.
James Lockhart was the young man in charge of rebuilding Captain Back’s Fort Reliance as a backup for this expedition. However, once James Anderson and James Green Stewart reached Fort Reliance, it would be closed down and abandoned once again. The HBC had no need for the post. And Stewart’s final words perfectly expressed what he must have felt about the long journey North to the shores of the Arctic Sea, and return. And the other men felt the same. All were eager to leave the river journey behind them and go home — mostly to the Red River Colony where they lived. Thomas Mustagen would, however, end up at Norway House, and so did some of the other men.
James Anderson left Fort Reliance the next morning and made his way across Great Slave Lake to Fort Resolution. On Thursday, September 13, James Lockhart returned to Fort Reliance with his two boats full of provisions intended for the men of the now-returned Expedition. On the 14th of the month they paid the First Nations men for their work, and left Fort Reliance behind, to be taken over by the Yellow Knife Dene. On Thursday, September 20, James Green Stewart arrived at Fort Resolution, and on the 22nd he said goodbye to Anderson and began his journey south to Carlton House and Norway House, travelling with the men who had accompanied them on the expedition. On Sunday, October 7, he crossed Portage La Loche, and on Wednesday he reached the post at Lac Ile-a-la-Crosse. On Sunday 21st October he passed through Cumberland House, and on Thursday he arrived at Norway House where he picked up his new wife. On November 3rd, he arrived at the Stone Fort at the Red River Colony. And that is where this story ends.
If you want to see the section of James Anderson’s journals that cover this section of James Green Stewart’s personal record, than go here and follow it through two or three posts — https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/anderson-to-clinton-colden-lake/
This book, titled: “No Ordinary Risks: Epic Historic Explorations from Hudson Bay to the Arctic Sea,” will be published in January 2027.
Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2026. All rights reserved.