The Journey Out
Image of a birchbark canoe on a Canadian River, from Glenbow Archive, image na-843-14, used with their permission
It is time to continue with the story of George Simpson’s journey south from Fort Wedderburn, on Athabasca Lake, to Norway House and the Hayes River. Simpson had no idea what future faced him when he got there, but he must have been satisfied with the returns in furs that the HBC had traded for this winter, and the improvements he had made. On May 23, 1821, Simpson”took my departure from Fort Wedderburn at 2 o’clock a.m., accompanied by Messrs. [William] Brown, [Robert Seaborn] Miles, & [Jonas] Oxley in two light canoes with twenty men.” He had said earlier that there were four passengers in the canoes, and of course the fourth passenger was the newly pregnant Betsy Sinclair who had been Simpson’s mistress over the winter of 1820-21.
He left Fort Wedderburn on Wednesday 23rd of May, and that evening encamped somewhere near the River Embarras. For HBC men everywhere, the word Embarras means logjam, and this was river that was filled with debris. Did they travel up the river Embarrass? I do not know. It sounds as if he did, but there were other branches of the Athabasca River that were open to travel, and one of them would have passed the junction of the River Embarras (see below). So, his journal continues:
24th, Thursday: Embarked at two O’Clock; Breakfasted at the Forks of River Embarras; the weather very unfavorable and our people so much worn out by starvation that they are unable to make an expeditious journey. Landed at 8 O’Clock.
25th, Friday: Left our encampment at 2 O’Clock; Breakfasted at nine; the weather very cold with wind and heavy rain; arrived at this place [Beren’s House] at eleven p.m., found the house deserted, [Robert] Clouston having gone a few miles higher up the River for the purpose of building at the request of the Indians.
This Robert Clouston was born about 1793 in the Orkney Islands, and joined the HBC as a blacksmith. He had just been promoted to Clerk. Simpson’s journal continues:
26th, Saturday: Started at four O’Clock a.m. Raining in torrents; Breakfasted with Clouston at the entrance of the Red River where he is erecting a house; the situation is good and there is a tolerable Summer Fishery which renders it preferable to Beren’s House. Buffalo & Deer are numerous in the immediate vicinity and the Crees promised to be industrious during the Summer, they are now at the Goose Hunt in Lac de Brochet and expected back in a few days. Clouston has not a particle of Goods, no spirits and only 10 lbs of Powder, three of which he must send Mr. [Robert] McVicar as there is not a load of ammunition at the Fort. Re-embarked at twelve O’Clock after making several necessary arrangements with Clouston and encamped at 8 O’Clock.
27th, Sunday: Left our encampment at 2 a.m.; breakfasted and finished our Provisions at the Forks of Pembina River; saw a great many Buffaloe & Deer and sent two men ashore to hunt; proceeded a few miles up the Little Athabasca River and put up early waiting the return of our hunters.
The Little Athabasca River is another name for the Clearwater River. As you know, many of these rivers had multiple names over the years: the Athabasca, for example, was called the Elk River — probably for the deer that were here. We continue:
28th, Monday: Remained at our encampment until 4 a.m. waiting the arrival of our hunters, but not making their appearance I determined on proceeding with one canoe and directed Messrs. Brown & Oxley to remain with the other until the return of the people; encamped at nine O’Clock at the upper end of the Pine Portage, our crew have lost much of vigour in consequence of the want of Provisions.
29th, Tuesday: Embarked at two a.m., passed several Indians but they had nothing to give us. Got to Portage La Loche at 10 O’Clock and had Canoes & Cargo transported across by 5 p.m. Found the Lake [Rendezvous Lake] covered with drift ice and got to this establishment [Lac La Loche] at 7 O’Clock, where I was surprised to find Mr. [Donald] Manson and our people who left Athabasca for Pemican on the 10th Inst [May]. Here they are waiting the arrival of Mr. [John] McLeod [of Ross] from Isle a la Crosse with a load of Pemican as Mr. [John] Clarke neglected to forward any upon the Ice, which will detain our Brigade nearly a month later than would otherways have been the case, and throw the affairs of Athabasca into much confusion. By a note from Mr. Clarke dated 16th Inst [May] it would appear that he was prevented forwarding the Pemican on the Ice by the disturbances at Isle a la Crosse but this turns out to be an empty excuse, as I find that eight light trains came here within these few weeks and they might have conveyed the necessarily quantity, but if I am at liberty to judge from present appearances, Mr. Clarke’s sole aim seems to be to embarrass the general affairs.
In a letter to Governor Williams, John Clarke explained that the strained relations between Fort Superior [the HBC post at Ile-a-la-Crosse], and the NWC post at the same place, led Clarke to assemble a council that passed some strict defence measures, including firing on Nor’Westers who came within gunshot of the HBC post, after due warning. This did not improve relations between the two companies, as you can guess.
Before I continue this, I am going to let you know what a difficult job it must have been to carry those canoes over Portage La Loche from the Clearwater River! Augustus Richard Peers tells us that, from the top of the hill, the trail was level and dry for three miles before it dipped down a moderately steep six-hundred-foot hill and led through a boggy prairie to the banks of the Clearwater River. And that was coming down the hill! Can you imagine how difficult it would have been to carry canoes up this “moderately steep six-hundred-foot hill,” and then continue on for another three miles across the top of the ridge???
Simpson’s journal continues: “30th, Wednesday: Messrs. Brown & Oxley joined us this morning, and we are unable to proceed on account of the Ice. Wrote Mr. McVicar giving some directions relative to the Brigade, also to Mr. McLeod directing that whatever Pemican may come from Isle a la Crosse be forwarded by Mr. Manson without loss of time, as the Canoes will not start from Fort Wedderburn until his arrival.”
This must be the rest of the Brigade coming out, so Simpson and his gentlemen are travelling in canoes that went ahead. I wonder if these two canoes are not the “racing canoes” he was hoping for. It is obviously true that the delays in delivering the pemmican would cause chaos at Fort Wedderburn, and it would delay the brigades departure for up to a month. John Clarke would have known that. He is intentionally delaying Simpson’s journey away from Fort Wedderburn. Simpson’s journal continues:
31st, Thursday: The Ice having partially receded to the opposite side of the Lake in the course of the night, we started at 2 a.m.; called at the Fishery & got half a net on which we must entirely depend for sustenance until we get to Isle a la Crosse, as there is not a particle of provisions at the House; proceeded along shore about ten miles and traversed the Lake through a narrow channel in the Ice, but on our arrival at the East side of the Lake the wind set in from the N.W. and in a few minutes we were hemmed in on all sides by large fields of ice which compelled us to put up for the night–unable to set our net & the people begin to exhibit fears of starvation.
1st [June], Friday: The nipping Frosts did for the first time this season remit their severity last night, the weather has been remarkably hot today. Left our encampment at four a.m. and effected our passage through channels in the ice to the opposite side of the Bay where we again put up, being unable to proceed. Sent Mr. Brown’s Canoe for a supply of Fish, and before its return our Guide discovered a channel to the mouth of the River. I therefore determined on proceeding alone, and at six O’Clock effected the passage. Encamped and caught a few carp of bad quality.
2nd, Saturday: Embarked t two a.m.; descended Rivierre [sic] La Loche, which was very low and got to the entrance of this Lake [Lac de Bouef] at 10 a.m., where we were obstructed by fields of Ice and remained in Camp until 9 p.m., when we attempted the large traverse, but were compelled to land at mid-night on the North side of the Lake.
3rd, Sunday: Proceeded on our Route at one a.m. and at four O’Clock came up to a field of Ice near the Sandy bar which again obstructed us, and landed at the mouth of a small River; at 10 a.m. Messrs. Brown & Oxley joined us and we were under the necessity of putting up for the day as the ice drifted in large masses towards the shore.
4th, Monday: The weather stormy with a little rain. At 1 p.m. part of the ice cleared away which enabled us to proceed a few miles along shore, but at 3 O’Clock we were again compelled to encamp; fell in with Calveez and his band (Isle a la Crosse Crees) who were actually starving, therefore could render us no assistance; our people were so much reduced by starvation as to offer their Blankets & Clothes for a Dog, but he would not part with it, and I had some difficulty in preventing their taking it by force.
5th Tuesday: At day break we discovered a Small channel in the ice which communicated with open water, and altho’ blowing hard and the passage very dangerous we attempted, and got through without any serious damage to our Canoes.
Ice can slice these delicate canoes to pieces. I learned that from James Anderson’s time at Lake Aylmer, in my soon-to-be-published book, “No Ordinary Risks.” The journal continues:
Paddled against a strong head wind to the opposite side of the Lake and saw a Canoe at the distance of two leagues under sail, which I conceived was Mr. McLeod with Pemican from Isle a la Crosse; made a signal and gave chase for an hour but as he was running before the wind, we could not get up with him. Passed the narrows of Clear Lake and got to the lower end of this River [Riviere Cruise] at 8 O’Clock where we encamped, and in the course of the Night were visited by a tremendous Thunder Storm.
6th, Wednesday: Embarked at two O’Clock a.m. and arrived at Fort Superior at six where I found Mr. Archibald McDonald in charge. Mr. Clarke had taken his departure for Cumberland [House] on the 3rd [June]. Here I learned that the N.W. Light Canoe with [James] Leith & [James] Keith had passed last night; it appears they found a passage on the South side of Buffaloe Lake while we were jammed in on the North side by the Ice. Mr. McDonald informs me that all the disturbance and confusion that has taken place here this Spring arose from Mr. Clarke’s violent conduct. Received letters from Messrs [Frances] Heron & [John Peter] Pruden intimating that they have delivered 108 bags of Pemican to Mr. Clarke for the Athabasca Department exclusively, 70 of which that Gentleman has found means to consume, leaving only 38 bags for our Brigades going out and returning to the interior, which in all likelihood will be a death blow to our prospects in the North, as it will be utterly impossible to provision our Brigades. Mr. Clarke has failed in every individual arrangement entered into with me, and unless the Governor-in-Chief [William Williams] adopts some measure to enforce a perfect understanding and co-operation between Isle a la Crosse & Athabasca, it will be quite impossible to conduct the business of the North. Our people are nearly worn out with hunger & fatigue, indeed myself & the other Gentlemen are in the same state, having had little or no sustenance for eleven days, we have therefore devoted the remainder of today to repose.
Upon his arrival at York Factory, Simpson intended to forward this journal to the members of the London Committee, with recommendations on how to fix all the problems he found while he was here. These notes would not go unnoticed.
At six O’Clock in the morning of the next day, June 7th, the two canoes embarked for Cumberland and Norway House. This part of the journey is much easier than the first part contained in this post, and they will proceed rapidly downriver to Norway House. We will continue that journey when I am ready, and when I do write the post, it will appear here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/whatever-i-call-it/
To return to his time on Athabasca Lake, and the beginning of his journey out from Fort Wedderburn, go here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/the-canadians/
Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2026. All rights reserved.