Governor Simpson to Edmonton House
This is image na-3934-16, from Glenbow Archives, and is used with their permission. The packhorses that the HBC men used were probably smaller than these horses, but the scene would be very similar to this. This is what the road to Edmonton House may well have looked like in places.
On Sunday, April 24, 1825, Governor George Simpson and his party have made it across Athabasca Pass, on their journey out of the territory West of the Rocky Mountains. In this post, they will make it all the way to Edmonton House. At the moment, however, the party rested at Camp Fusil, or Gun Encampment [now called Kane Meadow] just east of the Committee’s Punch Bowl Lakes in Athabasca Pass. I presume James McMillan and his “drunken squad” eventually arrived at Gun Encampment, and the party is whole again. Whatever happened, Simpson would never leave his special friend behind. So let us hear what Simpson has to say of the next part of his journey to the east on foot along the Whirlpool River.
Proceeded through deep Snow and along the Bed of the River in some places Waist deep in Iced Water until 6 pm when we put up on the Grande Batture [now Scott Gravel Flats]; every man of the party knocked up. The Avalanches have been sounding throughout the Day like Thunder.
The mountains are close to the river here: they could easily be swept away by avalanches in this narrow valley.
Tuesday, April 26th. Never did exhausted travellers turn out less disposed to renew a toilsome Jurney than we did at 3 o’clock his Morning, every man of the party requiring the aid of a Walking Stick, our feet being much blistered and Lacerated by the rough Travel on the Battures and in the Bed of the River; we, however, improved as we got Warm upon it and continued a Steady pace until 10 O’Clock, having by that time forded the River 27 times, when the joyful shout was given by one of the people that the Horses were in sight; we immediately put up for Breakfast. By the men who conducted the Horses I received a Letter from Mr. [Joseph Felix] Larocque conveying the distressing information of the total destruction of Norway House, the Stores and property therein contained, by Accidental Fire; a loss of about 3 to 4 thousand Pounds — no further particulars are given. This truly unfortunate accident I fear will put us to most Serious inconvenience, independent of the loss, and I must if possible increase the Speed of our Journey in order to get to Cumberland House, and from thence at all hazards to Norway House by Ice to the end, if possible of lightening the evil by timely arrangements.
I find that Simpson appears to think that “only I can fix this!” Variations of this speech are “Only I ever thought of this!” and “Only I could make this impossible journey…” They continued their journey to Jasper’s House, now riding the horses that had been delivered to them: in the course of the journey, however, “by an unlucky stumble of the Horse carrying my Baggage it was precipitated into the River and thoroughly drenched…I am concerned to find that my papers have got a share; this occasions the loss of a few hours in order to dry them and we accordingly put up at 5 pm at the Grand Traverse.” The Grand Traverse is where the Whirlpool River, which they have been following south and east, joins the Athabasca which they will follow all the way to Jasper’s House and on to Fort Assiniboine.
And, of course, it has just occurred to me that Fort Assiniboine was not built where it was built to afford any easy connection with Edmonton House, because it was built before the trail was put through — However, we do know that there was some sort of trail north from Edmonton House to Fort Assiniboine, because while Simpson was at Fort Assiniboine on his way into the territory, he was joined by men (among them Charles McKay, the Blackfoot Interpreter) who rode over whatever trail then existed from Edmonton House. Simpson’s journal continues:
Wednesday, April 17th. We were on horseback this Morning a few Minutes after 3 am and got to the Mountain House at 6 O’Clock, Chief Trader Larocque in charge, who handed me a large bundle of Letters from all parts of the Country; they generally convey satisfactory accounts of the Trade except in regard to the article of Provisions, which is more scarce than ever known, the Buffalo Hunts having entirely failed throughout the plains.
So, in 1824 and early 1825, the Bison did not come so far to the north to be hunted on our Canadian prairies. In another letter Simpson reported that Indian Corn had also failed at Red River, and he wondered how the company would get through the business of the season, “as the demands of the Land Arctic Expedition [of Captain John Franklin] are heavy and must be met whatever inconvenience the Service may experience…” Simpson’s journal continues, with news of what happened to Joseph Felix Larocque after Simpson left him behind on the Beaver River on the way into the territory west of the Rockies.
When Mr. Larocque left York last Fall it was determined that he should winter at Cranberry Lake [at the west end of Yellowhead Pass], in the heart of the Mountains, but his craft was set fast by Ice in the Athabasca River which rendered in impossible for him to get beyond this place; he however took a Winter excursion in that direction and finds that no Establishment can be maintained further in the Interior of the Mountain than where now situated, large Animals being scarce and the Lakes producing no fish…In short, viewing the subject in all manner of ways I think it will be in the Company’s interest that this post be withdrawn altogether, as the Furs will assuredly find their way either to Fort Assiniboine or Kamloops without incurring the Expense of an establishment….
And that was that: Larocque’s Mountain House was closed down, and in the York Factory Express journals that followed, it was only marked by the name, “Larocque’s Prairie.” Simpson’s journal continues:
After getting our Canoes repaired we embarked at 12 am [pm] and proceeded to the foot of Miette’s Rock [where the second Jasper House later stood] where we put up at Dusk.
Thursday, Spril 28th. Embarked at 3 O’Clock am, got to Jasper’s House [on Brule Lake] at 8 where we found Michel Klyne, who goes to take the Summer charge of Lesser Slave Lake in the course of a few Days; remained there a couple of hours and continued our route, found the Athabasca River very low and were obliged to put up early to repair our Consort Canoe which was much injured in running Rapid au Mort [Rapids de Croix].
They got to Fort Assiniboine at 9 o’clock in the morning of Saturday, April 30th. George Deschambeault was in charge, and Chief Factor William McIntosh had already travelled across the newly cleared trail to Edmonton House with his furs. And look at this: new information about either Edward, or Francis Ermatinger, both of whom were West of the Rockies at this time! “It was intended that Mr. Fraser should have passed the Summer here, but learning by the York Factory Despatches that Mr. Ermatinger would not be at Edmonton in sufficient time to conduct the Arctic Expedition Boats, I have ordered Mr. Fraser thither for that purpose….” The Arctic Expedition Simpson spoke of the Second Expedition of Captain John Franklin, and the goods intended for the expedition men were sitting at Cumberland House, awaiting the supply of pemmican from Edmonton House. It seems that it was intended that Ermatinger take those supplies north to the Athabasca River from Cumberland: instead, the clerk named Fraser was sent in his place. Fraser reached the Portage la Loche with the goods, where Frankllin (who was coming from England on his second Expedition to the north) overtook him and carried the goods northward. His journal continues:
At 3 O’Clock pm left Fort Assiniboine for Edmonton on Horseback and put up at [unnamed place or time], having gone about 12 Miles, the road tolerably good considering that it has been opened since I passed here last Fall through thick Woods.
Yes, this is the road that Jacques Cardinal, the freeman, carved out on Simpson’s instructions of 1824. A better way to write that last sentence would be: “…the road tolerably good considering that it has been opened through thick Woods since I passed here last Fall.”
Simpson’s party reached Berland’s Lake [now Deadman Lake, north west of Edmonton] on Sunday, May 1, and Simpson decided that the road was fit for the use of the York Factory Express which would be established in 1826, replacing the brigades that, at this time, travelled by the Beaver River to Cumberland House. Simpson was pleased to find the new trail so convenient.
Indeed, the change of routes I have determined on will, on these two Districts alone, yield a saving to the company of at least 12 to 1500 pounds sterling per Annum, if the Company determine on continuing the transport business of New Caledonia with York Factory, and further I am satisfied that this discovery of Mine (as I alone can claim the merit thereof, it never having been even dreamt of by any other), will enable us to do the Peace River business at a reduction of one third on the usual expenses…. as the Peace River outfits & returns can be taken by Horses in 5 Days between Dunvegan & Lesser Slave Lake, by boats in 4 or 5 Days between Lesser Slave Lake and Fort Assiniboine, by Horses between the latter place and Edmonton in 3 or 4 days….
“I alone thought of this!” Governor Simpson does regularly remind me of someone that we all listen to on an almost daily basis. I am not aware, however, that the Peace River furs ever came out through Lesser Slave Lake and Fort Assiniboine, however. I think he must have changed his mind. Anyway, his journal continues as he reaches Edmonton House, on the North Saskatchewan River.
Monday, May 2nd. Reached Edmonton at 12 am [pm] having come from Fort Assiniboine in about 2 Days, the distance being about 80 Miles; found Mr. [John] Rowand up to his Ears in business as usual, and without exception he is the most active and best qualified person for the troublesome charge he has got of any man in the Indian country. The Provision Trade has entirely failed, the two Posts (Edmonton & Carlton) barely producing 200 Bags Pemican and many plain Indians having Starved to Death in consequence of the absence of Buffalo. The Rat [Muskrat] hunts have likewise failed in consequence of the lowness of the Waters, but the returns in Beaver are very fair, about 3,000.
Wednesday, May 4th. Occupied throughout the Day in various arrangements and gave the people a Danse in the Evening.
On May 5th he heard about the various difficulties between the managers of the posts in the district, and dealt with some of Edmonton House’s problems. Then, he said:
I have every inclination to indulge my poor crew with a few Days rest at this place as they are quite Worn out by the long and harassing Voyage they have made, and a little repose would not be unwelcome to myself, being a good deal jaded, but by anxiety occasioned by the deranged state of our affairs owing to the Norway House Fire, scarcity of provisions, failure of the Indian Corn Crops in Red River, together with the assistance required of us by Captain Franklin’s Expedition, quite unhinges me, so that every hour will appear an Age until I get into the scene of action, [I] have therefore determined on being off immediately. The [Saskatchewan] Brigade does not start for 10 or 15 Days, and it is not considered safe to pass down the Saskatchewan with merely the Crew of One Boat. We are, however, prepared for the Worst and must take our chance.
The 1825 Brigades set off in twelve boats that year, according to the footnotes [and Alexander Ross.] It appears that Governor Simpson and his men set off in one York Boat, heading downriver to Carlton House, which they reached on Thursday, May 12. Simpson says, at Carlton House, that “Our Voyage from Edmonton to this place was very tedious owing to the lowness of the Waters and continual head Winds, occupying 8 Days in which nothing of interest occurred. We were not molested by Indians. Killed a few Buffalo, Red Deer [Elk], and abundance of Feathered Game.” Although he does not mention it here, there were some interesting occurrences before he reached Carlton House, and during his time there. I will address this in my next blogpost, which you will find here when published: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/simpson-at-carlton-house/
So, at the moment he is heading for Norway House, which has just burned down. If you want to go back to the beginning of his journey from Fort Vancouver to wherever he ends up [there is a hint of a change of mind here, as you will see], then go here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/simpson-at-fort-vancouver-1825/
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My new book, Working Title: Three Journeys North to the Arctic Sea, will be published in January 2027.
Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2025. All rights reserved.