Over Portage La Loche
A ripple in a river that flows between rocky and tree lined banks toward the rounded hills in the distance. This is actually the North Thompson river at Little Fort, B.C., where the HBC men used to cross their brigades
In 1820, Governor locum tenans George Simpson and his Athabasca brigades arrived at Fort Superior, the HBC post on Lac Ile-a-la-Crosse, and departed it once more for the North. The date: Friday September 8, 1820. Here goes, with a short repeat of how I ended the last post as the brigades paddle away from Fort Superior, the HBC post on Lac Isle-a-la-Crosse. Yes, they are not using York boats, but are travelling in clumsy and ill-made birchbark canoes. And yes, that would change, because Simpson was embarrassed by the condition of the canoes that his brigades travelled home in. But here’s his journal, as he and his party travel North to the place where they will cross over Portage La Loche.
8th, Friday. Detained here by a strong head wind and heavy rain…
9th, Saturday. Took our departure from Isle a la Crosse at five a.m., blowing fresh through Riviere Cruise and got to the entrance of Lac Clear at two o’clock, where we were detained by the wind. Along the N.E. side of Lac Clear I understand there is a communication to Athabasca which avoids Portage La Loche, it was explored by the XY Company but found very circuitous. Re-embarked at five p.m. and encamped at the entrance of this Lake [Lac du Boeuf] at eight o’clock.
The XY Company was another trading company, also called the NNW Co., that Sir Alexander Mackenzie was a part of in the early 1800s. They finally merged with the North West Company in, I believe, 1804.
10th, Sunday. Unable to leave our encampment on account of the wind until ten a.m. This is a very stormy Lake [Lac du Boeuf] being much exposed by its high situation, and canoes are frequently windbound several days. Made the Grande Traverse [across the Lake] altho’ blowing fresh with a short broken sea, which rendered it somewhat dangerous. Encamped at the entrance of this River [Riviere La Loche]
11th, Monday. Did not embark on account of the Rapids until five a.m., the water very low and much time occupied in polling [sic] up, and repairing the damage which our Canoe had sustained.–The Water was so low in this River some years ago that the NWC Brigade could not proceed, they were therefore under the necessity of bringing their Athabasca Indians to this place in order to be equiped [sic], and part of their goods was hauled by Dogs in the course of the Winter, a very expensive and laborious business: here I fear our [future] boats will meet with difficulty in dry seasons, but as they are intended to come in early while the Waters are high, there will be less danger.
When you hear Simpson “speak” in his journal, you can see that his plans are already made. He is determined that this will happen, and he doesn’t even know that he will be a part of the Company next summer! Now they continued their journey North to the place where they will cross over Portage La Loche.
Made Decharge la Barrier, Decharge Sepulcre, the latter is the worst piece of road I ever travelled, it is three miles in length, and the last mile a perfect swamp, filled with stumps of Trees three feet deep: the poor fellows carry two pieces each the whole length of this Discharge. Encamped at seven O’Clock [at Portage de Pinnet, on the Methye River. The Riviere La Loche and the Methye River are the same rivers, both Loche and Methye refer to the whitefish found here.]
12th, Tuesday: [They are still on the Riviere la Loche.] Renewed our march before day break. Met an Indian under the charge of a NWC man, gave them a dram and told the Indian we should be glad to see him in Athabasca, but his keeper seemed to have him under strict discipline; arrived at the entrance of Lac La Loche at nine a.m.; blowing hard and compelled to put up for the day.
13th Wednesday. Left our encampment at five am.; strong wind and shipping got to Mr. [John] Clarke’s establishment [Lac la Loche post] in the lake at 10 a.m., one [Joseph] Perring in charge, where I found a very fine band of Indians, to whom I made a speech and gave some Rum & Tobacco; from them I learnt that the NWC had circulated a thousand falsehoods to our prejudice; but they appeared delighted to find that they were void of foundation. Mr. [John] Clarke’s fame resounds over the country and has attracted Indians from all quarters; from him they expect unlimited supplies, without recompense, and calculate on passing an easy comfortable winter without the trouble of hunting…..This establishment interferes very much with Fort Wedderburn, and is not likely to do good to the Trade generally, and therefore in my opinion should be with-drawn. Perring, the man in charge, is totally unworthy the trust reposed in him and should be dismissed the service; he is on terms of intimacy with Frazer, the NWC Clerk in charge of the opposite post, who he has supplied with fish the greater part of the season; he is also an habitual drunkard, and enjoys himself with his friend, Mr. Frazer, at the Company’s expense on the liquor intrusted [sic] to his charge. Mr. Frazer finds him a very convenient social neighbour, and as he has not the means of reciprocating, he spends his Evenings very pleasantly over a flagon in Mr. Perring’s Tent.
It may amuse you to know that this Mr. Frazer is probably Paul Fraser, who appears in The HBC Brigades, and who died on the brigade trail in 1855, when a tree fell on his tent.
I have given this fellow a very serious lecture on the impropriety of his conduct, and will write Mr. Clarke [who is in charge of the Ile-a-la-Crosse district, with its headquarters at Fort Superior] on this subject. He [Perring] was pleased to give me. little dried meat as we were short of provisions, but not until I handed Mr. McLeod’s note to that effect, as it appears he has been peremptorily instructed by Mr. Clarke never to render any assistance to the Athabasca Department. Took leave of this Gentlemen who is certainly one of the Company’s worst bargains, and proceeded to Portage La Loche. The entrance from the Lake is by a little shoal zig-zag muddy stream for about half a mile to the landing place, but sufficiently large to admit a fifty piece boat; proceeded about one mile on the Portage and encamped near the little Rivulet: it is usual for the Bourgeois on his first visit to this Portage to treat the men with an extra dram, otherways [otherwise] he is subject to the unpleasant process of shaving (as practised on board Ship in crossing the line), and as ancient voyaging customs must be respected, I indulged the people with a bottle of rum, and they have honored me by naming the spot ‘Le campement de Monsr. Simpson.’
When clerk Thomas Lowe sailed across the Equator in 1841, he experienced this ‘unpleasant process of shaving’ aboard the London ship he was travelling in. You will find it here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/thomas-lowe-5/
The early part of the evening was extremely calm and mild, but about nine o’clock a sudden gust of wind came on (which blew the Tent down and the ridge pole nearly fractured by skull) and was followed during the Night by a violent Tempest with Rain.
14th, Thursday: This has been a day of great labour to the men, the Canoe & cargo have been carried to the Petit Lac [later called Rendezvous Lake] in the Portage, the Canoe fell from the shoulders of the men and is greatly damaged. The air keen with severe Frost.
This lake is in the middle of the Portage La Loche, at the top of the hill. They still have to get down the other side of the Portage to reach the Clearwater River, which will take them west to the Athabasca River and, eventually, Athabasca Lake, their destination.
15th, Friday. Resumed our labour at daybreak and got the Canoe and baggage across the Portage to the Little Athabasca River [Clearwater River] at ten a.m. Portage La Loche is the height of land that divides the waters which discharge themselves into Hudson’s Bay from those that run into the Frozen Ocean, and is considered the N.W. boundary of the Honorable Hudson’s Bay Coys Territories.
Simpson and his men are now crossing over Portage La Loche. The HBC Charter gave the Company all the lands watered by rivers that flow into Hudson Bay. Portage La Loche was the northern terminous of the territory in which they had a right to trade, but North of the Portage they had the same rights to trade and settle as any other British subject. Of course the North West Company argued otherwise. Simpson’s journal continues as they cross over Portage La Loche.
The Portage is thirteen miles long, say: nine to the Petit Lac, and four to the Little Athabasca River. The road for the first nine miles is very good, and carts may with perfect safety travel it without any repair, the bottom hard sand, and notwithstanding the late heavy rains perfectly dry–Petit Lac is about a quarter of a mile wide across, which the Cargo is carried in the Canoe; from thence the road is bad for three miles, and carts cannot be used until considerable expense is incurred in making and repairing it. In the last mile is a precipice where there will be great difficulty and labour in launching the Boats, however with rollers and careful steady men it can be accomplished. The summit of the precipice commands a very charming and extensive view of the surrounding country, exhibiting the varieties of Hill, Dale, wood & water. This Height of land rises about one thousand feet and is in North Latitude 56 degrees 20′ & Longitude 109 degrees 15′ West. Loaded Boats, even with the assistance of carts will, I think, take a week in the Portage; where there is abundance of provender for Horses. Detained until one p.m. repariing the Canoe; the Voyage now becomes more agreeable and less toilsome, as we run down the stream the banks pleasant, and have the prospect of getting to our destination in the course of a few days. Made the Terre Blanche [White Mud] Portage, which is the only carrying place for boats of any great consequence except Portage La Loche between the Saskatchewan River and Rocky Mountains.
The footnotes tell me he refers to a river originating in Athabasca Pass, “which crosses the province of Alberta and the Athabasca district and falls into Lake Athabaska after a course of nearly a thousand miles.” So the upper Athabasca River??? To continue, as they paddle away from the Portage La Loche.
16th, Saturday. Embarked at day break. Made Decharge la Grosse Rochè, Portage la Bon, & Cascades. Breakfasted at the mineral springs, the waters of which from the taste and smell appear to be strongly impregnated with Sulphur. Came up with two Crees in charge of a NWC man, gave them a dram, but they did not seem inclined to change sides. Broke our Canoe and lost two hours in repairing the damage. Encamped [along the Clearwater River] at seven p.m.; light supper as our provisions are nearly exhausted.
17th, Sunday. Started at the usual time; the Water low and much injury done to our canoe passed the Forks of this River, also the Salt & Pitch Springs, but did not go ashore to examine them, as time is now precious, our provisions being quite out. Encamped at seven p.m. [on the Athabasca or Elk River.] Empty stomachs do not agree with the Canadians, they have lost much of their gaiety today.
18th, Monday. Embarked before day break, met a NWC Canoe with one passenger; passed our deserted Post of Berens House (Pierre aux Calumet) and encamped at seven o’clock supperless.
19th, Tuesday. Left our encampment at day break and at the entrance of this River came up with Big Bubbies band of Indians in chrge of one of our people. They were delighted to see us, and complained bitterly of the miserable state in which they were left during the summer, without Ammunition, Tobacco or Goods. The NWC had used every means to debauch them, represented us as birds of passage, and that they would never permit us to cross Portage La Loche again; that they had taken the Governor [Williams], Mr. [Colin] Robertson, and all the Company’s principal Officers prisoners, and ‘made Slaves of them for Life.’ [Joseph] Soucisse, who was sent out in spring a prisoner under a legal warrant and escaped at the Grand Rapid, corroborated these statement, but all their arguments had no effect on Big Bubbies, who remained staunch, and Soucisse, when all other expedients failed, beat and maltreated them in a most inhuman manner; he broke the arm of one ‘Eazzino’ or the Carriboo by a blow of his paddle. I said a few words of comfort to these poor creatures, gave them a dram, and desired them to oin us at Fort Wedderburn in the course. of a few days; they in return gve us a very seasonable supply of geese and ducks, which cheered the drooping spirits of our men who were by this time nearly worn out; proceeded a little way, and landed to a very hearty repast, eleven of us devouring at one meal no less than twenty two geese and three ducks. Proceeded and met one of our Canoes with Messrs. [Auley] McAulay & [Amable] Grignon, going with a supply of Ammunition to the Indians, and in quest of the Barens House Crees. From them we had the pleasure to learn that every thing is quiet and well at Fort Wedderburn. Saw two of our people shooting geese which are very numerous in this River they have made a good hunt. Landed at six pm. in order to give our men time to wash their things as they are desirous to appear in good feather on their arrival at the Fort.
And so Simpson would reach Fort Wedderburn on the next day, September 20th, having left Norway House on what appears to be the last day of July, 1820. Not a bad journey at all, altho’ lots of hard work for the men.
So we have George Simpson to the shores of Athabasca Lake, and he and his men will make Fort Wedderburn in the next post. I have found it interesting what Simpson did to so intimidate the North West Company men, although I am sure he did not tell us everything. `He will be at Fort Wedderburn for seven or eight months, and then will be going out again.
So, when the next post is published, you will find it here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/whatever-i-call-it/
Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2026. All rights reserved.