Historic posts, Peace River

A ripple in a smooth river that flows between heavily treed river banks toward the rounded hills in the distance. 

In our second post about historic fur trade posts west of the Rocky Mountains, I am beginning with the Peace River and heading west and south. Yes, I know that most of the river is not west of the Rocky Mountains — but in the early years of BC’s fur trade, many people came west via Peace River. So I am going to talk about these posts.

Starting from the east, where the Peace flows into the Mackenzie [the Slave, actually] River, just north of Athabasca Lake, I work westward toward the Peace River Canyon and the junction of the Finlay, the Parsnip, and the Peace. The information is again taken from the book, Historic Forts and Trading Posts of the French Regime, by Ernest Voorhis, published in 1930. I forgot to say that on my last post, so here it is now.

Here’s the first fort on the Peace:

Red River Fort. North West Co. fort at the junction of Little Red River and Peace River. It was called Fort de la Riviere Rouge and was known as Little Red River fort to distinguish it from Old Red River fort on Athabasca River (Fort McKay). The first fort was built by Boyer, independent, in 1788. It was the first post in this region and was afterwards abandoned. The North West Company was represented by John Thomson who built a fort, 28 ft. by 24 ft. on north side of Peace River at mouth of Little Red River, in 1798 or 1789 [there’s a typo here: its probably 1788 or 1789], known as Little Red River fort or Fort Grand Marais. This fort was abandoned and in ruins in 1805. The Hudson’s Bay Co. rebuilt this fort and have operated it to date [to 1930, when the book was published.] Little Red River is now called the Mikkwa River. 

The Red River Fort seems to have had two location on the Red River: as does the next fort, Fort Vermilion (1). [Fort Vermilion (2) is the Fort Vermilion on the North Saskatchewan River. Notice the spelling, Vermilion having only 1 L in the middle of it.]

Fort Vermilion (1). North West Co. fort on north bank of Peace River near mouth of Boyer River. The first fort, known as the “Old Establishment,” was built by Boyer, 1798. After the union of 1821, this fort was taken over by the Hudson’s Bay Co. who later built a new establishment about 4 miles farther upstream from Boyer River, and still operate the post. Daniel Williams Harmon visited the Old Establishment in 1808. The Arrowsmith map of 1857 (no. 8) shows the location of the “Old Fort.”

Finlay House (2). Trading post of free-traders shown on map No. 11 of early Alberta posts on right bank of Peace River about 116 degrees 34′ W and 58 degrees 14′ N, opposite some islands, and about 30 miles upstream from the “Old Establishment” at the mouth of the Boyer River (Ft. Vermilion). It is named “Old Fort” on the Hudson’s Bay Co. map 1857 (No. 8). 

Keg River post. Hudson’s Bay Co. post on east bank Peace River, 60 miles above Fort Vermilion, near mouth of Keg River. It was sometimes called Fort du Tremble. Shown on H.B. Co. map 1857 (No. 8) and Map of North West Territory 1877 (No. 16). This fort was originally built by the North West Co. about 1800 or earlier, and is called by David Thompson in 1804 “Old Fort du Tremble.” Sometimes called De Tremble or Des trembles. 

This next historic post on the Peace River is built just upriver from the Keg River post, but on the opposite (north) side of the river.

Encampment Island Fort. North West Co. fort on left bank, Peace River above Fort Vermilion. Built before 1808 for trade with Beaver Indians. Visited by Daniel Williams Harmon 1808. Shown on map No. 2 for Harmon’s Journal. It was probably near or opposite Keg River Fort or Fort Du Tremble built later and was named “Old Fort” on Hudson’s Bay Co. map 1857 (No. 8). 

Horse Shoe House. Hudson’s Bay Co. post on left bank of Peace River at mouth of the Nitikewin (or Battle) River, about 75 miles below Peace River P.Q. [I wonder what P.Q. refers to?] It was one of the very early posts, probably erected by North West Co. and taken over by Hudson’s Bay Co. at union. In their List of 1869 it is called Battle River House. David Thompson was there in March, 1804.

McLeod’s Fort. North West Co. fort on left bank of Peace River just below mouth of Smoky River, a few miles below Fort of the Forks. Was well-built with a stockade and 5 bastions. After the union of 1821 the Hudson’s Bay Co. operated this fort for some time. It appears on their 1857 map no. 8… Built in 1791. An X.Y. Fort was built nearby.

This is an important post in a sense, because so many people, who are trying to discover where their fur trade ancestors were, mix this fort up with the Fort McLeod in southern Alberta: a post that had nothing to do with the fur trade and everything to do with the North West Mounted Police. So always look at the Peace River McLeod’s Fort, if you are looking for fur trade ancestors. It is named for Archibald Norman McLeod, and he lived there. It seems to me that Peter Skene Ogden’s first wife is buried here, too. Which, incidentally, means that when Peter Skene Ogden escaped the wrath of the Hudson’s Bay Company in the years before the merger, this is how he came to enter the territory West of the Rocky Mountains.

So, which historic post on the Peace River comes next? It’s Fort of the Forks, already mentioned above.

Fort of the Forks. Small North West Co. fort on north side of Peace River, 5 miles above the mouth of Smoky River, near the forks. It was built in 1792 by Alexander Mackenzie. David Thompson visited the post in 1802, and John Stuart in 1803 & 1804. After the union of 1821 this post was continued by the Hudson’s Bay Company for some years. The present Peace River Landing [in 1930] is a short distance below the old Fort of the Forks. Site is 117 degrees 23′ W. 

There are two other Fort of the Forks. Fort of the Forks (2) seems to be an early name for “Fort McMurray, also Fort George.” I would think the “also Fort George” refers to the fort that was at the junction of the Nechako River and the Fraser, where Prince George is today. The final Fort of the Forks (3) is “La Fourche,” an old French Fort at the mouth of the Ohio River, a long way from being west of the Rocky Mountains!  So let’s continue: Fort Dunvegan is next.

Fort Dunvegan. Hudson’s Bay Co. fort on north bank of Peace River at mouth of Muddy Creek (118 degrees 40′ W & 56 degrees N.), built about 1800. Was closed temporarily in 1825 to punish the Indians for the massacre at Fort St. John in 1823. This fort was maintained by the Company until about 1900. The North West Company also built opposite the Hudson’s Bay Co on the south bank, about 1800. This fort was soon moved to the north bank, near the Hudson’s Bay Co. It was named after McLeod’s castle of Skye Island. Daniel Williams Harmon visited the fort in 1809. 

Fort St. John. Five different forts were constructed at different times near the present location and all were called Fort St. John. 

(1) First fort was built by the North West Co. on the left or north bank of the Peace River a few miles below mouth of Pine River, about 121 degrees W, twenty miles below the present St. John and 100 miles above Dunvegan. Built in 1805. In the autumn of 1823 this fort was burned by the Indians and Guy Hughes and four men were massacred. Daniel Williams Harmon speaks of visiting this fort in in 1810 and in 1833. McLean describes the fort as in ruins and deserted. [Which McLean, I wonder?]

(2) In 1860 the Hudson’s Bay Co. constructed a second fort on the south shore at the mouth of North Pine River. 

(3) In 1873, the Company erected a new log fort on the north shore opposite. 

(4) In 1885 that fort was abandoned and another one constructed across the river on the south shore. 

(5) In 1925, the fifth and present fort St. John [in 1930] was built at the beginning of Sikanny Trail.

There are quite a few dots representing the various locations of Fort St. John over the years. Fort Hudson’s Hope was the next post along the Peace River, heading west. So…

Fort Hudson’s Hope. Originally this was a North West Co. fort on the north bank of Peace River at the mouth of Middle River. Built by Simon Fraser, 1805, as a base for his British Columbia explorations. It was known as “Rocky Mountain House, or Fort,” also as “Old Hudson’s Hope,” and “Rocky Mountain Portage Fort.” This post was operated by the Hudson’s Bay Co. after the coalition of 1821. It was abandoned for a time in 1825 to punish the Indians for the massacre at St. John in 1823.

New Hudson’s Hope was built about 1875 on the south bank about 12 miles further upstream from Old Hudson’s Hope, at the east end of the portage, near east end of Canon [Canyon?] at its foot. [This post was built just east of the Peace River Canyon, where the men made a difficult portage to get through the Rocky Mountains.] Sometime after 1880  this post was again moved to its present location on the north side. David Williams Harmon in his journal, 1810, October 15th, calls Hudson’s Hope the “Rocky Mountain Portage Fort.” Cust’s House and an old Hudson’s Bay Co. post are shown on Arrowsmith map, 1832, at the west end of the portage from Rocky Mountain House. 

Cust’s House. A free-trader’s establishment at west end of Rocky Mountain Portage, Hudson’s Hope or Rocky Mountain Portage Fort being at east end. Harmon was there in 1810, and does not speak of Cust’s House, simply “the northwest end of Rocky Mountain Portage.” It was on the left bank of Peace River in the canon [canyon], 56 degrees N – 122 degrees W. An old Hudson’s Bay Co. post was located at west end of portage.

So once you have reached Cust’s House, you have reached the west side of the Rocky Mountains, on the Peace River!

The next historic post is no longer on the Peace River, but on tributaries to the Peace — that is, the Parsnip and the Pack River that join the Peace from the south. This historic post is Fort McLeod! Or McLeod’s Lake, or Trout Lake, or whatever you wish to call it! It carried all of these names over the years. We are now in northernmost New Caledonia, only a stop or two away from Fort St. James.

Fort McLeod. North West Company fort at north end of lake McLeod, British Columbia, built by Simon Fraser for the Company in 1805. This is said to have been the first post erected in B.C. After the union of 1821 this post was operated by the Hudson’s Bay Co. to date [1930].

So Fort McLeod was on the southernmost gaggle of rivers that flows into the Peace at this place — I am fascinated that on the Finlay, which flowed from the north into the Peace at the same spot the Parsnip entered the Peace, has a post on it. As you know, the Finlay is the river that Sam Black explored in 1824, when he almost (but not quite) reached the junction of the Turnagain River with the Liard. This river junction was mentioned in my last post in this series, found here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/historic-posts-in-the-west/ 

So, that post, on the Finlay river, was this: 

Fort Grahame. Hudson’s Bay Co. fort on left or east bank of Finlay River, about 124 degrees 45′ W and 56 degrees 35′ N. It was established about 1890. 

So, returning to the McLeod Lake post, the next post — or the one that is closest to the McLeod Lake post — is Fort St. James. 

Fort St. James. Originally a North West Co. fort at east end of Stuart Lake, BC, built by John Stuart and Simon Fraser, 1806. At first was known as Stuart Lake Fort or Fort Nakasley, and was called Fort New Caledonia by Fraser. Daniel Williams Harmon was in charge from 1811 to 1817. After coalition in 1821, this fort became the chief Hudson’s Bay Co. post in New Caledonia. Has been operated by the Company to date [1930], or 123 years since established. 

We now have the choice to follow the Stuart River south toward Fraser’s Lake and Fort George — or follow the Skeena River west, along which are four posts. So, Skeena River it is: 

Fort Babine. Hudson’s Bay Co. fort at north end of Lake Babine, BC. Built 1822 and in continuous operation ever since. It was famous for its salmon, but poor as a fur trading station. It was sometimes called Kilmaur’s Fort. Was first built at base of the two arms at the north end. In 1836, it was moved 35 miles to the north end. 

Fort Stager. Site of this fort is shown on map No. 35 of 1898 on left bank of Kispyox [Kispiox] River at the confluence of Skeena River just north of Hazelton, BC. [If you want to know more about this region, then read Geoff Mynett’s books, say River of Mists.]

Fort Essington. Hudson’s Bay Co. fort on Pacific coast between Fort Simpson and Fort McLoughlin, near mouth of Nass River, BC, site of present Bella Coola. Founded 1835 to serve as an intermediate station. Was of short duration. 

Fort Simpson. Hudson’s Bay Co. fort near mouth of Nass River, BC, built 1831-32. In 1834 it was moved to Tsimshian peninsula [the mouth of the Nass River estuary]. A new fort was built in 1860. It was closed in 1913 and burned in 1914. 

Fort Essington is confusing me. First: Fort Nass, the first Fort Simpson, was at the mouth of Nass River. Where was Fort Essington? Well, Port Essington is on the south bank of the Skeena River, between Prince Rupert and Terrace, and nowhere near Bella Bella — that was Fort McLoughlin. Captain George Vancouver gave it its name. Was it ever a fur trade fort? No: not that I can see. 

Next post, we will begin from Fort St. James and head south, to Fraser’s Lake, Fort George, and Fort Alexandria. Of course, we will also look up the Fraser River at the post that is at its headwaters. There are a lot of fur trade posts west of the Rockies, and I am barely into British Columbia. However, I will warn you: this book does not go far south of the Columbia River, so those posts down there may be omitted. 

When the next post in this series is written it will appear here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/new-caledonia-posts/ 

Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2025. All rights reserved. 

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