The Nelson River

Image of a birchbark canoe on a Canadian River, from Glenbow Archives, image na-843-14, used with their permission

The mighty Nelson River flowed east from Playgreen Lake, where Norway House stood, making its way down the steep and rocky east side of the Canadian Shield to Hudson Bay just north of York Factory. In fact, the HBC headquarters of York Factory stood on a marshy tongue of land that jutted out into the bay: just north of this point of land was the Nelson River, and just south, the mouth of Hayes River. The Nelson River carried all the waters from the Saskatchewan and North Saskatchewan, the Red, the Assiniboine, the Winnipeg River, Green River, the Burntwood, the Grass, the Sturgeon-Weir River, and all their tributary rivers, down the hill to Hudson Bay. There was no other way for all that water to reach the sea: the Nelson River drained the entire continent west of the Rocky Mountains, north of the Mississippi and Milk Rivers, and south of Wood Lake and Portage-de-Traite [Frog Portage].  

Even in the early years, the HBC men on the bay did not travel up the Nelson River to Playgreen Lake. The book, Exploring the Fur Trade Routes of North America, by Barbara Huck et al, tells me that,

If the Ottawa-Mattawa-Lake Superior route was the Montrealers’ mainline, then this waterway — southwest up the Hayes River to its junction with the Nelson, across the top of Lake Winnipeg, past the great rapids at the mouth of the Saskatchewan River and west through Cedar Lake to Cumberland House — was the Hudson’s Bay Company highway.

Beginning almost immediately after the 1774 construction of Cumberland House, the company’s first major inland trading post, this arduous route became the main supply line to what quickly grew into a vast trading territory in north-western North America. The Hayes River route would eventually link York Factory, the enormous depot on Hudson Bay, to the inland posts as far south as as North Dakota and as far west as the Columbia River.

From early days, the HBC men travelled up the Hayes River as far as the Painted Stone, and then crossed the low height of land by the Echimamish River, into the Nelson River some 25 miles from Norway House. They did not use the Nelson River, even though it led them to Frog Portage. Why, you ask? Well, as one HBC man described the Nelson River,  

The descent for a certain distance from Lake Winnipeg towards the sea, by a series of lakes terminating in Split Lake, is necessarily very gradual. Thence consequently to its mouth the Nelson rushes with great impetuosity.

So what kind of fool is going to travel west to the Columbia from Hudson Bay, via the Nelson River?

This fool. Here is this fool’s story:

Sunday August 15, 1824. The Honourable [London] Commiteee having signified a wish that I should visit the Columbia Department, I used every diligence to get through the business of the season at York [Factory] sufficiently early to ensure a passage to the Rocky Mountains before the Navigation closed, and with much perseverance and labour my correspondence was finished and the principal transactions of the Year completed by the 15th of this Month, when after conveying my sentiments fully to Mr. [John George] McTavish [Chief Factor in charge of York Factory] on all matters connected with the business, and leaving to his management the final arrangements of the season, I took my departure from York accompanied by Chief Trader [James] McMillan in a North Canoe with a complement of Eight Men, besides my own Servant and an Indian guide.

Well, I suspect you have figured out who this is, haven’t you? It is, of course, Governor George Simpson himself, and in 1824 he is on his way to the Columbia District via the Nelson River to Portage-au-Trait (also called Frog Portage), and not by the Hayes to Norway House. There is more:

Dr. [John] McLoughlin, who was appointed to succeed Mr. [Alexander] Kennedy in the superintendence of the Columbia Department, left York on the 27th of the preceding month [July] with two Light Canoes and Fourteen Men having the start of us by Twenty Days; he took the route by Norway House [via the Hayes and the Echimamish], and the Object of sending so many hands across the Mountains this Season was to replace others expected to retire next Year and to reinforce the Snake Country Expeditions which has sustained considerable loss in the recent Conflict with the Slave [Blackfoot Confederacy] Tribes of the East side of the Mountain….

As you will see, Simpson plans to take the route by the old Frog Portage [Portage-de-Traite] to Green River and then on to the Athabasca.

In order to acquire a more perfect knowledge of the Navigation of Nelson’s River and the route from Split Lake to the Frog Portage, likewise conceiving it to be the shortest track, I determined on proceeding by that communication, but in the very outset of the voyage we had the misfortune to encounter a strong Gale of Wind which prevented our Doubling Point au Marsh, so that at the Mouth of the [York] Factory River we were obliged to put ashore, the surf running so high that in order to save the Canoe it became necessary to get into the Water up to our Necks, and there hold our weak bark until the Lading was taken up to the Beetch (Beach), when she was carried ashore. 

It is interesting to see that Governor Simpson called the lower part of the Hayes River the “York Factory River.” Many years later, Thomas Lowe used that same name for that section of the Hayes, and so did Dugald Mctavish. His journal continues:

Time was now too precious to admit of our waiting until the Storm blew over; we therefore shouldered our Craft and Baggage for Fifteen long Miles, which was a tedious Service on account of the badness of the road and strength of the Wind, rendering it necessary to employ Six Men in the transport of the Canoe alone, two being the usual number in short, and Four in long Portages; by great exertion, however, and some danger, having re-embarked before the Storm abated by Wading through the Surf in like manner as on landing, we had the satisfaction of finding ourselves at liberty to prosecute the Voyage in defiance of the Weather, having got within the shelter of the banks of Nelson River the second night from York, and encamped near Seal Island, as high as the influence of the Tide is felt in the river. From thence we may be said to have only commenced our Voyage as we were still in sight of the Factory Smoke across the point. At 2 o’cock am of the 17th we left our Encampment and in the Evening of the 20th got to the Establishment of Split Lake, having fallen in with no occurrence worthy of remark.

So they started this journey from York Factory on the 15th of August, and they only got into the mouth of the Nelson River on the night of the 16th — and on the 20th, evening, the party reached the old post at Split Lake. If you remember above, the HBC man who described the Nelson River said that from Split Lake, the Nelson River “rushes with great impetuosity” to its mouth. That is the part of the river that Governor Simpson and his party of men made their way up. It took them 3 1/2 days to make their way from their first encampment, up the rapid-filled river to Split Lake.

Much later in this document (I almost missed it, in fact), Simpson writes of the problems he had in making his way up the Nelson River.

It may here be proper to say a few words regarding this Communication, which is little known and much spoken against. The worst and most dangerous part of the Navigation I conceive to be almost within sight of the Factory, in doubling Point au Marsh. Boats half Laden have nothing to fear unless blowing unusually hard if the Point is doubled at the proper Tide, say about half flood, as the Shoals and bar at the Mouth of the River prevent any considerable Sea rising and the Tide sets in so strong that in the course of an hour or two they are within shelter of the Banks of Nelson River; the other half of their ladings may easily be taken by the small Leighter [sic] as high as Seal Island. In like manner the Cargoes of Canoes may be taken by the Vessel the same distance and the people can carry their Canoes light from the lower to the Upper Beakon [Beacon], where a light Canoe may venture out in almost any Weather. But at the Season the Northern Brigades arrive at and leave York it rarely blows so hard as to prevent Craft doubling the Point with their ordinary Ladings.

The Point of Marsh is the name of the long, broad spit of marsh land that juts out into the Bay between the mouths of the Nelson River, and the Hayes. York Factory itself is built much closer to the Hayes River than to the Nelson. Also, as you can see above, Simpson is definitely considering the Nelson River as the incoming and outgoing routes for the various Brigades that came into York Factory. However, the Saskatchewan Brigades [not yet travelling with the York Factory Express], arrived at York Factory in June and left in July, when the rivers were still running high with the spring freshets. In 1824, Simpson is taking the boats up the Nelson River in August, when the freshets are no longer running strong. His story continues, with a description of the ascent of Nelson River as far as the old Split Lake post:

From Seal Island there is a strong steady current, the Water too deep and the bottom too Muddy to use Setting Poles, so that it is necessary to go up with the Tracking Line. The tracking ground is generally good. The Rapids are very strong but plenty of Water and the Current runs with great force at the points, but there is no danger of breaking and little of being upset if the Bow & Steersmen are careful not to allow the head of the Craft sheer too far out into the Current.

“Setting poles” are poles. This indicates that the men did not pole their canoe up the Nelson River. https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/tracking/

The Portages, six to Eight in number, according to the state of the Water, are good, and none exceeding 3/4ths of a Mile; in short, after having passed up and down I consider the Navigation from York to Split Lake perfectly safe if anything like common prudence is observed: indeed, far preferable to Hill [Hayes] River in every point of view. Early in the Season, however, there is some danger at the Steep Banks which to a great height are faced with Drift Snow & Ice, and it is necessary to pass nearly under those Banks as the rapid is too strong and Shoal to be run outside, so that Craft and people must incur the risk of accidents from the Fragments of Snow & Ice falling, but if they take the precaution of passing down there late in the Evening or early in the Morning, there is less danger than in the heat of the Day. In going up latter end of July or beginning of August there is no danger, as little Snow or Ice remains so late in the Season.

I think the above paragraphs indicates that in 1824, Simpson came down the Nelson River to York Factory. To continue: the men tracked their canoe all the way up the Nelson River to Split Lake. 

From Split Lake to the Frog Portage there cannot be a finer navigation as far as regards safety, as people cannot drown unless they are really so disposed; they cannot run risks as the falls are so heavy that they will never be attempted; the access to the carrying places is good & no danger of being swept into the current; the portages are frequent but tolerably good and none exceeding half to 3/4ths of a Mile in length. But the great objection of the people to this track is the want of Lakeway, & Establishments not affording them any rest, by head Winds or by Gentlemen indulging themselves in taking a few holydays at the Establishments of Norway House & Cumberland en passant, and this very objection on their part is to me the strongest recommendation it can have, as the time to be occupied by the Voyage may be calculated to a Day, whereas by the other route much delay is occasioned by bad Weather in the Lakes and by amusements at the Establishments, and these amusements are attended with a certain heavy expense, as extra provisions are consumed, Balls are given, and the business frequently neglected. The Establishment of Norway House alone has occasioned more expense in this way since the Coalition than the profits of its Trade would defray. 

From Split Lake, Simpson’s canoe no longer travelled the Nelson River to Norway House, but went up the Burntwood River and overland to the Churchill River. At least that is what Simpson planned to do: it did not, however, work out that way. Nevertheless, the idea of that journey is what made Simpson so happy about the Nelson River, as you can see above. Somewhere in this book there is a story told, where a favoured voyageur grabbed Simpson by his collar and held him under water until Simpson agreed to stop driving them so hard!

Lets learn a little bit about the posts that lay along the Nelson River, and for this we will use information from Voorhis’s Historic Forts and Trading Posts. The first fort is at the mouth of the river, and I know at times people talk about a Fort Nelson — and here it is! Its York Factory by an earlier name. York Factory had a long and interesting history. There was a war between the French and the British, and York Factory was captured on several occasions by French ships that sailed into the Bay. 

Fort Nelson (1). Called also Fort York, now York Factory, and under the French Fort Bourbon…. Sir Thomas Button wintered at Port Nelson.

1670. Hudson’s Bay Co. erected a small establishment at Hart’s creek, mouth of Nelson River. This fort soon disappeared.

1673. The HBCo. traded at Button’s wintering place.

1682. Governor John Bridgar of HBCo. erected a fort at Woodchuck Creek up the Nelson River, the fourth of the Company forts on Hudson Bay. This fort was seized by Pierre-Esprit Radisson (at that time in the interests of the French) in the spring of 1683. The fort was destroyed and Governor Bridgar carried prisoner to Fort Bourbon (see just below).

1682. Pierre-Esprit Radisson, after destruction of the H.B. Co. fort, built a fort about 15 miles up Hayes River, above the present York Factory and on the right bank (descending) of the river, which he called Fort Bourbon. This fort Bourbon was on the site of the later York Factory and above the present York Factory, and on the opposite side of the river. Radisson was then acting in the interests of the Compagnie du Nord. Nelson River was then called Bourbon River by the French and the Hayes River Ste. Thérèse.

1684. Pierre-Esprit Radisson (now in the employ of the HBCo.) returned and seized Fort Bourbon for the HBCo. and it was renamed Fort Nelson, and also called Fort York, and York Factory. 

1686. Chevalier Pierre de Troyes captured all the HBCo. forts on Hudson and James Bays except Fort Nelson, the name of which was now changed to York Fort. 

1690. HBC Governor Thomas Phipps destroyed the fort to save it from the French.

1691. York Fort was rebuilt by the HBCo. larger and stronger. It was located about 4 miles from the mouth of Nelson River on the south side of the triangular tongue of land bounded by the two river channels converging. It was a stockaded fort with bastions at the four corners. The river front was protected by earthworks and cannons. The fort had 32 cannon, & 14 swivel guns outside and 53 swivel guns inside. This fort stood for nearly 100 years until finally burned by French in 1782.

It was a long long war, as you see. This was the 100-Years-War between England and France, and it came all the way to the North American continent.

1694. Attacked by Pierre le Moyne d’Iberville and surrendered to the French, October 14, 1694. It was renamed Fort Bourbon and the Hayes River called Ste. Thérèse, the fort having been captured on Ste. Thérèse day, October 14. The Nelson River was renamed Bourbon River. 

1696. Surrendered to the English, 31 August 1696. 

1697. Attacked by Pierre le Moyne d’Iberville and surrendered to the French, September 1697, and held by them until 1714 when it was handed back to HBCo. by terms of the Treaty of Utrecht. 

1782. Captured by French and finally destroyed.

1783. Rebuilt by the HBCo.

1788-1793. Moved half a mile upstream to its present location to avoid floods, the work of removing and rebuilding occupying 5 years. Remains of the old fort destroyed in 1782 are still visible. It had been built in the midst of swamp land, covered with low stunted spruce almost impenetrable. The land never thaws more than from 12 to 18 inches in the hotest weather. The work was carried on under Joseph Colen and several of the present buildings were constructed by him in 1789. [This book was published in 1930]. York Factory consists of several buildings arranged around a quadrangle; some being large warehouses, others are residences. The present location is about half a mile above the old fort. York Factory is the great warehouse depot of the Hudson’s Bay Co., where a supply of goods, etc., is kept on hand to meet the demands of trade for two years. For over two centuries York Factory has been the central supply house for all the HBCo. posts of the western country, a great centre of distribution until the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1885.

Nothing remais of York Factory except the big storehouse, built in 1830. So, there you have the overall history of York Factory. So the next post up the Nelson River is…

Gillam Post. Hudson’s Bay Co. post at mile 327 Hudson Bay Railway 3 miles south of Kettle Rapids on Nelson River. Established 1927. (Obviously, it did not exist when Simpson travelled up the Nelson River.)

Split Lake House. Old Hudson’s Bay Co. post established on Split Lake, Nelson River, Manitoba, between 1740 and 1760, antedating Cumberland House by about 30 years. It was one of the earliest posts off the Bay, about 140 miles from Fort Nelson [York Factory]. For some years this post seems to have been closed and the present Split Lake House was established in 1886 at the north end of the lake. Supplies for this post were at first brought from Norway House down the Nelson River by York boat, but this method was abandoned in 1916 and supplies are now brought by railway from The Pas to Landing River (mile 279) and thence by canoes 26 miles to the post. [Remember this manuscript was written in 1930.]

But we do now know that Split Lake House was 140 miles from York Factory. I also just learned, quite by accident, something very interesting about Split Lake, from the Edmonton Post Journals of all places! A footnote in one of these books tells me that “Split Lake House (1790-1833) was established on Split Lake (so named because a peninsula nearly bisects it) on the Nelson River. The Nelson, Burntwood, and Grass Rivers — all historically significant alternate river routes inland from York Factory — flow into the lake’s west end, and the Nelson flows out.” In 1824, Simpson chose to leave Split Lake by the Burntwood River route.

It took Governor Simpson and his men 3 1/2 days to travel from York Factory to the Split Lake post. Let him continue his journey west:

Having repaired our Canoe, which had sustained some damage in the rapids of Nelson River, and got a supply of pemican for our people, we started from the Establishment of Split Lake at 10 o’clock am the 21st [August], and continued our route on the regular communication to Frog Portage till the 25th, keeping our people constantly at their Paddles about 18 hours out of the 24, altho’ it rained almost incessantly since our departure from Split Lake. Our guide now informed us to our great disappointment and surprise that that it would be necessary to go to Nelson House (about a days March off the track) in search of an Indian to conduct us to the Frog Portage, as his knowledge of the route did not extend beyond that Establishment [Nelson House]…

As I said previously, they are not travelling up the Nelson River from Split Lake House. The regular route to Frog Portage [Portage-de-Traite] was up the Burntwood River to Burntwood Lake, thence by a portage to Kississing River and thence westward by the waters of the English River [and yes, the English River was another name for the Churchill River.] If this is the route they wanted to take, why did they not just travel north to the Churchill River, and paddle up it? Well, weather, wind, and waves, I guess.

We know that traveling up the Nelson River did not finally convince Simpson that the route was not a good route for the incoming and outgoing Brigades? We will discover what made the difference a little further along this thread. When I publish the next post in this series, it will appear here: https://nancymargueriteanderson/whatever-i-call-it/

Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2025. All rights reserved. 

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