Beaver River
The Beaver River flows from Beaver Lake in Alberta, south and east across the northern Prairies to Lac Ile-a-la-Crosse. From that lake, its waters flow into the Churchill River and Hudson Bay. In this post, Governor Simpson is travelling westward, along the Beaver River to the portage at Lac la Biche, and he is having some trouble doing so.
In September 1824, Governor George Simpson and his paddlers reached the Ile-à-la-Crosse post, headquarters of the English River Department. At this place, he was given a letter left behind by Chief Factor John McLoughlin as he had passed through the fort eight days earlier. McLoughlin is heading for the Columbia district to take over the command of the district from Chief Factor Alexander Kennedy. “The Doctor is still Eight Days a head of me,” Simpson said, “and does not expect I can overtake him before he reaches [Fort] Nez Perces on the Columbia, but in this he is mistaken…” Almost certainly, Simpson immediately made it his goal to catch up to McLoughlin.
So on September 6, Simpson “left Isle-à-la-Crosse at Sun Set, made very slow progress up the Beaver River on account of its lowness, the people almost constantly in the water dragging the Canoe; the Weather cold, raw, and disagreeable, thick fogs and raining at Intervals Daily.”
I have already written about this river, as in 1823, Peter Skene Ogden and John Work had travelled up the Beaver River on their way to the Athabasca. Here is the post: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/two-canoes-eight/ This is the regular route taken by the NWC men, and the later HBC, to reach the upper Athabasca River and Jasper Valley, and there is probably some information in this post that will add to whatever Simpson has written about his journey up this shallow river. In fact, Work (who is the author of this journal) has quite a good description of the Beaver River.
Simpson’s journal continues:
Saw several bands of Indians but there were all starving, being quite destitute of Ammunition, which reflects much discredit on the Chief Factor in charge of the District. No scarcity of Animals indeed, we see Moose & Buffalo Tracks Daily, but altho’ we have a few Ball and are getting nearly tired of Pemican I am so eager to get on that no time is lost in hunting. Mr. [James] McMillan and I are obliged to cool our toes occasionally by a walk in the river to lighten the Canoe in the Shoal places. On the 16th [September] near Sun Set we found Mr. Laroque [Larocque] encamped about three Leagues above the Moose Portage, he had accompanied the Doctor [McLoughlin] from York this length, where finding the water so low he determined on Waiting the arrival of the Lesser Slave Lake Brigade with his outfit; the Doctor had passed this place on the 10th [September] so that we have gained two Days on him from Isle a la Crosse.
This was Chief Trader Joseph Felix Larocque, who three years earlier had built a substantial post on the west bank of the Athabasca River, where the Cottonwood Creek flowed into the Athabasca. (Simpson said he had spent two winters at his post.) On passing Mountain House on his return from the Columbia in 1825, Simpson would order the post closed down. The name remained, however, and even though no post stood there, the prairie that surrounded it was called Larocque’s Prairie, and is often mentioned in my book, The York Factory Express.
Simpson’s journal continues:
Mr. Laroque accompanied us a few Miles higher up to our Encampment and passed the Night with us, he gave me some useful information respecting the Indians and Trade of Thompson’s River, where he had Wintered two years. Raised Campement at Day break the 17th [September], but found the little Beaver River nearly dry in consequence of a Severe Frost during the night, so that we were obliged to carry the Baggage along Shore while two Men took the Canoe up light with great difficulty; abandoned the small Canoe at the Jolie Bute and sent the two men I had from Isle a la Crosse back; wrote Mr. Keith [Chief Factor George Keith] by them. On the 18th I found it would be impossible to get along the Beaver River, many parts of it not even having an appearance of moisture; we had now got to where an Indian Winter Track strikes off to the Northward and falls into Lake la Biche [Lac la Biche] after passing several Lakes and Portages…
Surely he is now thinking that this shallow route cannot serve the incoming Express from the west side of the Rocky Mountains, the Lesser Slave Lake Brigades, the Fort Assiniboine Brigades, and those of the posts in the Jasper Valley! The Saskatchewan Brigades travelled down the North Saskatchewan and Saskatchewan Rivers to Norway House: they would not be included in this change of route. But the others? Surely not! In fact, Simpson did decide against using this route, and it seems he made the decision fairly soon. His journal continues:
We had now got to where an Indian Winter Track strikes off to the Northward and falls into Lake La Biche after passing several Lakes and Portages; the Doctor [McLoughlin] had taken this Track with an Indian Guide and I now determined on following him, altho’ we had no person who knew the route. Mr. Laroque, however, offered to go ahead with a small Canoe and Search out and mark the track for us, and if possible to find a Guide. The 18th likewise the 19th and until the evening of the 20th was occupied in passing through the track in which we had a Portage of 7 Miles, then a Lake of about 8 Miles, where we had much difficulty in embarking and Landing on account of a great depth of soft Mud at the edges in which it was scarcely possible to drag the Canoe, and through which the people had the utmost difficulty in Wading, indeed one poor fellow was nearly drowned, having sunk up to the chin, but saved by the timely assistance of one who had got ashore. We then made a portage of a Mile to another Lake of about 6 Miles, where we had fully as much trouble in getting through the Mud as in the former, and where we encountered the heaviest Gale of Wind I have experienced in North America. At a small Narrows of this lake we Encamped, being unable to make a Traverse; throughout the Night the Trees were continually falling by the Violence of the Wind so that our situation was rather uncomfortable, being obliged to put up for the night on the Wet Mud at the Waters Edge, exposed to Wind and Weather as it was unsafe to get within reach of the falling Timber, the crashing of which together with the dismal houling [howling] of the storm and the fear of having our Canoe blown away interfered seriously with our repose…
Would this be the night of September 18th to 19th? I am pretty sure that at this point that, if I were in charge, I would decide that this was not a good route for the heavily laden Brigades that would be forced to use it in the future! However, it is Simpson’s decision to make, and this series of portages and muddy lakes did not seem to be a sticking point with him yet. The journal continues on the morning of September 19 [?]:
From hence, we made a portage of 1 1/2 Miles, then crossed a Swamp of 100 Yards, then another Portage of 1 1/2 Miles, then a Lake of one Mile, then a portage of 2 Miles, then a Lake of 1/2 Mile, then a portage of 200 Yards where we met Mr. Laroque on his return with two Boys to conduct us; Proceeded accompanied by that Gentleman through Island Lake, 6 miles in length, at the end of which we encamped and found [Jacques] Cardinal, the Freeman, who hearing of our distress came from Lake la Biche to assist us.
So I think they crossed six portages and seven lakes, although I probably lost count. I have also lost track of the days, as you will see below. Governor Simpson does have something to say of the Beaver River route: “From several remarks in the course of this narrative will be seen the tediousness and uncertainty of the Beaver River Navigation even to half laden North Canoes, rendering the Voyage extremely harassing to the people, requiring such expensive and precautionary arrangements in regard to provisions, assistance from freemen &c &c, and in dry Seasons occurring the risk of not getting to the Wintering Grounds before the Ice sets in, but above all, the heavy expense occasioned by this route in Men’s Wages, it being impossible to substitute boats for canoes.” Boats took fewer men than Canoes, but getting the York Boats over these many portages (some of them very long) was impossible, even in a good year. “For this purpose I would recommend that the route by the Beaver River be abandoned altogether,” he said, “and by forming one Brigade of Seven Boats to start from York at the usual time, say about the 20th July,” it would require only Forty five Men to manage the boats by the Saskatchewan River route, instead of Seventy Nine to take the heavily loaded canoes up the Beaver River. Of course, all that was written later. He hadn’t made this decision yet, but he was certainly coming to it.
So Simpson’s party encamped alongside Jacques Cardinal’s, on what must have been the night of September 19-20? No, I am wrong. Simpson writes: “At Day break the 21st Mr. Laroque took his leave of us and returned to his Encampment near the Moose Portage, there to await the arrival of his outfit, and we proceeded on our route, making a Portage of about two Miles where one of the Canoe carriers fell and broke the Canoe, which which occasioned a delay of three hours in repairs; we then passed through Beaver Lake, ten Miles long, to Portage La Biche, where we found Ottawa, Cardinal’s Son, and an Indian waiting to assist us across the Portage, which is about Four Miles in length, and by Dusk had everything across. We encamped on the Banks of Lake La Biche [Lac la Biche], where we found old [Antoine] Dejolais, the Freeman, and his family, likewise Cardinal’s Family and a posse of Freemen and their followers.”
The following is a pretty clear indication that Simpson had made up his mind against using the Beaver River as a route for the brigades:
With Cardinal the Freeman I made an agreement that he should in the course of this ensuing Winter and Spring get a Horse track or road cut from Fort Assiniboine to Edmonton House, Saskatchewaine, which I shall have occasion to speak upon hereafter. Left our encampment on Portage La Biche before Day break the 22nd, crossed the Lake of that Name, about 20 Miles, and fell on River La Biche, which we descended and a more disagreeable navigation or piece of Road I never travelled; the River itself was nearly dry so that it became necessary to carry the Baggage at least four fifths of the way, two men took down the Canoe light with great difficulty, and Mr. [James] McMillan and I walked the whole way and most abominably dirty Walking it was, the banks of the River having been recently overrun by Fire, and while still smoking a light rain had fallen so that we were up to the knee every step in Charcoal and ashes, and by the termination of each Days March as black as Sweeps. On the 24th we killed a fine large fat buck Moose and as ourselves and people were a good deal harassed by continual marching since we left York, and but indifferently fed, I thought the present a good opportunity of indulging both them and us with a half holyday, it being now about 3 o’clock pm. Preparations were forthwith on foot, the Moose was soon relieved of his Skin, a rousing Fire made and all hands employed to the utmost of their skill in the art of Cookery: a haunch, the Nose, and Tongue Mr. McMillan laid aside for ourselves and the rest of the animal made over to the people, who were occupied from the time of putting ashore until the sound of leve–leve–leve [get up, get up, get up] the following morning in a continued succession of Eating, roasting and boiling.
This is where he catches up to Chief Factor John McLoughlin! Bruce Watson says that McLoughlin was only a Chief Trader in 1824, and I think I must have found the same source somewhere, because I thought that too, for a while. But he is not. He is a Chief Factor at the time he came west to the Columbia District.
On the 26th at 7 o’clock am came up with the Dr. before his people had left their Encampment, altho’ we had by that early hour come from his Breakfasting place of the preceding Day; himself and people were heartily tired of the Voyage and his Surprise and vexation at being overtaken in Riviere la Biche, notwithstanding his having a 20 Days start of us from York, is not to be described. He was such a figure as I should not like to meet in a dark Night in one of the bye lanes in the neighbourhood of London, dressed in Clothes that had once been fashionable, but now covered with a thousand patches of different Colors, his beard would do honor to the chin of a Grizzly Bear his face and hands evidently Shewing that he had not lost much time at his Toilette, loaded with Arms and his own herculean dimensions forming a tout ensemble that would convey a good idea of the highway men of former Days.
What a good description of John McLoughlin! Presumably, as Marguerite Waden McKay, his wife, had her first child in 1812, McLoughlin would probably be travelling west with his family (which by this time included four children. But it seems that John McLoughlin Jr did not travel across the mountains with his father at this time, and so perhaps Marguerite, and her other three children, remained behind.)
About 2 pm that same day (Simpson says 2 A.M. in his journal), Simpson and McLoughlin “got to the Athabasca River and put up for the Day in order to repair our canoes which had got much shattered in the shoal Waters of Riviere la Biche. Continued our route the following Morning but Slackened our speed in order to give the Dr. an opportunity of keeping up with us.” They got to the mouth of the river that led out of Lesser Slave Lake on September 29, at 2 pm., “where we found two men waiting for us with a supply of Provisions, Bark & Gum. By them wrote to Mr. [Pierre] Pambrun, directing him to proceed to New Caledonia in the course of the Winter, as after receipt of his instructions to join Mr. [William] Connelly at Dunvegan, that gentleman would have been past, and neither the Establishment of Lesser Slave Lake nor Dunvegan could spare men to take him on to the Rocky Mountain Portage after the New Caledonia Brigade.” There was an overland trail from Lesser Slave Lake to the Dunvegan post, on Peace River (I think it existed at that time), and Pambrun would probably have used that trail to make his way northward to the Peace River and west to New Caledonia that winter. Simpson’s journal continued:
Proceeded up the Athabasca River and recognized my Winter Encampments of two Years ago; we had during that Journey most unfavourable Weather yet I find we made longer Days Marches altho’ the Snow was about 3 feet Deep than we now do with the Canoes.
Governor Simpson spent a lot of time over his first few summers (and winters, too, it seems) checking out the territories that he was now the Governor of. He spent his first year checking out the region around Cumberland House. Next he was on the North Saskatchewan River, and after that in the Athabasca. The Columbia district was not the only region he reorganized! In fact, it seems that after the merger of 1821, Simpson was on the verge of closing most of the posts along the North Saskatchewan River, including both Carlton House and Edmonton House. The furs were exhausted, and the South Branch Expedition to the Bow River had proved a failure. But the changing transportation routes to the Columbia district meant that some of these North Saskatchewan River posts stayed open. In addition to that, the Blackfoot were now bringing furs into Edmonton House from the south.
To continue Simpson’s journey:
On the Morning of the 1st [October] about 2 hours before Day Break, soon after the people were called, our Guide and Shorkie had a Boxing Match, but after 4 or 5 good rounds it was a drawn battle in consequence of my interference, being afraid they might hurt each other which would necessarily retard my progress. Passed the 5 Islands at 10 o’clock am the same day and got to Fort Assiniboine on the following morning at 9 o’clock am., say Saturday the 2nd October.
Here I found Letters from Messrs John Stewart [Stuart] and Rowand, these Gentlemen had left York Factory with the Saskachewaine Brigade on the … July; the former addressed me from Carlton and the latter from this place where he arrived Four days ago in hopes of seeing me, and returned to Edmonton yesterday; the circumstance of Mr. Rowand’s having got to this place from Edmonton after accompanying his loaded Brigade from York, thereby performing the Voyage in …. Days, shews how much shorter the route is by the Saskatchawaine than by the Beaver River, and accounts for some arrangements I am about to suggest and have taken steps for carrying into effect without further delay, which I have no doubt the Honourable Committee & Council will approve.
John Stuart’s journal of the voyage from York Factory to Carlton House tells me that he and Rowand left Hudson Bay on July 26, 1824. They both reached Norway House on August 12; Cumberland House on August 27, and Carlton House on September 7, 1824. According to Stuart, Rowand wasn’t in a rush to beat Simpson. Unfortunately I don’t know when John Rowand arrived at Edmonton House.
I will continue this story in the next post, which when published, will be found here: https://nancymargueriteanderson.com/fort-assiniboine-2/
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My new book, Working Title: Three Journeys North to the Arctic Sea, will be published in January 2027.
Copyright, Nancy Marguerite Anderson, 2025. All rights reserved.